Victoria Memorial at dusk

Long Read

A Walk Through Colonial Kolkata

By Sourav Ganguly
12 min read
Kolkata
Heritage
Architecture
History

Kolkata, once the second city of the British Empire, is a living museum of colonial architecture. Its grand buildings, wide avenues, and hidden lanes tell tales of immense wealth, political power, and a cultural renaissance that shaped modern India. A walk through its historic core is a journey back in time.

The Heart of the Empire: Dalhousie Square

Now known as B.B.D. Bagh, this was the administrative and commercial hub of British India. The magnificent Writers' Building, with its Corinthian columns and red facade, was the seat of power. Opposite stands the General Post Office (GPO), its towering dome an unmissable landmark. The entire square is an ensemble of architectural styles, from Neoclassical to Victorian Gothic, each building a testament to the ambitions of the Empire.

The Writers' Building in Kolkata
The impressive facade of the Writers' Building, a symbol of colonial authority.

Victoria Memorial: A Tribute in Marble

No exploration of colonial Kolkata is complete without a visit to the Victoria Memorial. This opulent monument, built with the same Makrana marble as the Taj Mahal, was conceived by Lord Curzon as a tribute to Queen Victoria. It seamlessly blends British and Mughal architectural elements, a style known as Indo-Saracenic. Today, it houses a museum with a vast collection of Raj-era paintings, artifacts, and manuscripts. The surrounding gardens offer a tranquil escape from the city's hustle.

Chowringhee and Park Street: The European Quarter

The area around Chowringhee Road was the city's premier European enclave. Grand hotels, exclusive clubs like The Bengal Club, and stately homes lined the wide streets. Park Street, known as the "street that never sleeps," was the center of entertainment, with its famous restaurants, bars, and music scene. Walking here, one can still find remnants of that glamorous past, in the art-deco architecture of its cinemas and the timeless elegance of its establishments.

A bustling scene on Park Street
Park Street continues to be a hub of culture and cuisine in modern Kolkata.

Conclusion: A Living Legacy

The architectural legacy of the British Raj in Kolkata is not just a collection of old buildings; it is an integral part of the city's identity. While the city has evolved, these structures remain as powerful reminders of a complex history, their grandeur and stories continuing to fascinate residents and visitors alike.

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